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Frequently Asked Questions
The origins of knitting and crochet are very different and are not related to each other. This means that knitting is not the origin of crochet.
Knitting was developed as an offshoot of a craft called nalbinding.
Crochet's origin is from rug hooking. Rug hooking uses a hook to attach material to materials like canvas. It was discovered through techniques that a loop could be pulled through an existing loop. Building up texture on a rug.
In Michael's own words, it sparked curiosity about what else can be done with existing pre-made loops. What if the canvas is missing and you start with one loop, then another, as we would call a chain today?
With the discovery, it's realized that crochet is built up in a vertical format, whereas the beginning chain is technically the canvas of a rug. Knitting grows horizontally, whereas crochet is built up vertically.
Crochet creates a loop and closes it as only one hook is involved. Knitting, you make the loops, hold the loops open on the needles until the next row, and so on.
Major Difference
Crochet is one knot, one after another. It is created and closed. When a mistake is made, you can pull out the loops and restart.
Knitting has open loops and is considered live until fastening off. Because the loops on the needles are live, mistakes are harder to fix.
Different Journies
The speed of crochet is faster than that of knitting.
The looks achieved can be completely different, but crochet offers more opportunities to do things more easily, such as circles, stuffed toys, and other great projects.
Knitting is thinner, as less yarn is used to form a fabric piece, so it doesn't look as bulky.
Michael's Biggest Eye Opener
The journey is not the same, nor should it be compared. When you consider the difference in execution, speed, and finishing looks, you realize they are not the same, and you have to consider one versus the other. It's apples and oranges in the same yarn bowl.
Once he decided to stop comparing them, he began to enjoy both for what they were: two enjoyable hobbies, and one isn't better than the other.
It's ridiculous to feel less than in an independent yarn store if one cannot knit or crochet. Creativity should be encouraged regardless of what you do with the yarn. Life is short; enjoy the ride.
Look for basic yarn; a solid colour is best to begin learning, so you can see the stitches and understand how the yarn is being manipulated with the crochet hook.
Do not use animal-based fibres as they can be tough to pull out your stitches and increase your frustration in learning to crochet.
Look for 100% acrylic or a blend of cotton/acrylic yarn.
Brands like Red Heart Super Saver, Bernat Super Value and Caron One Pound are staple brands that have lasted decades and are reliable for learning to crochet.
Look for information on the yarn ball band indicating the weight of the yarn and recommended crochet hook size.
The label below shows #4 medium-weight yarn, the most used size, with a 5 mm / H8 hook. It's the right hook size and yarn to use.
Stay away from novelty or fluffy yarns during the learning process. A yarn called bouncle can be a nightmare in the beginning steps, as you cannot see the stitches.
If you are starting to learn to crochet, try a dishcloth.
Mikey prefers generic crochet hooks, which he purchases on Amazon. They have a combination of a rubber and plastic grip and a metal hook with a moulded finish on the tips.
These generic hooks do the trick without branding or a major company behind them. Hooks don't need to be overcomplicated or crazy expensive, as our hobby requires a low investment in learning to see if you enjoy it.
You will use the following hook sizes the most:
4.5 mm / US 7
5 mm / H/8
5.5 mm / I/9,
6 mm / J/10
6.5 mm / K/10.5
8 mm / L/11
Ergonomic hooks, designed for your hand are better than straight hooks.
Don't overcomplicate the process with fancy stitch markers, as they are unnecessary. Yes, they are cute to look at, but your solution is right in your own home.
Mikey uses spare yarn to keep counts and the same strand to carry through a project to record the number of rounds or the information you need. If you ever have to rip out the project, you know precisely the last stitch of every round.
What is the purpose of a stitch marker?
Stitch markers are intended to help you keep track of the project, whether it's the right side (good side) or the wrong side (back of the project). They can also help you locate corners in tighter stitch projects and more. They're an intended tool to help you with your stitch work and shouldn't be feared.
Problems with Clip-On Stitch Markers
Clip-ons usually have a clasp to open and release from the work. It's tedious and a waste of time. Using spare yarn is much faster.
Fancy stitch markers usually have extra things attached, which can be weighted. The weight can stretch the strand it is connected to.
Fancy stitch markers can snag on other plies, causing pulls in your project to show as you are making it.
You already have the yarn, you are all set. No extra money to spend.
Legally, I am not allowed to touch patterns that are not my own to work with them on a commercial level. If I were a personal friend and sitting with you one-on-one, that's different from being a cyber person.
Yarnspirations offers customer service support for its own designs. If it is a pattern they own, you can contact them.
I don't work privately with consumers to go through patterns or film secret tutorials to assist. Designers who make their patterns should be the first contact to explain the pattern better. I hear complaints often about designers not being reachable, mainly when the patterns are sold to the consumer.
Legal liability isn't worth the punishment that could be inflicted in the effort to help out. All I can do is offer how to read crochet patterns, but there may be errors in the pattern that the designer hasn't corrected. It may mean you must fudge your way through a step to get to the next. I have run into oodles of patterns that needed correction, but I usually try to figure out what the designer meant and move on from it.
Everyone has different tensions and motions with their hands. Many factors can contribute to this, such as disabilities, stress, emotional well-being, and just the way your body moves.
If you don't follow the gauge, items like hats and clothing will not fit. It's always recommended to check the gauge before you commit to the final project.
What is it exactly?
It's the number of stitches = specific distance by the number of rows = same distance.
Most gauge swatches are measured over a 4" x 4" square.
If the designer gave you 14 sc and 15 rows = 4", it simply means they have 14 sc and 15 rows that span over 4".
Changing Crochet Hook Sizes
Example: You have measured 15 sc instead of 14 sc. You need to increase the hook size so the stitches are bigger, so there will be fewer stitches for the 4".
Example: You measured 12 sc instead of 14 sc. This means you are too loose and need to tighten up your stitches. Decrease a hook size or more to shrink down the size of the stitches so that more stitches appear in the 4" span.
TIP
If there is an issue and you are getting just the number of stitches across but the rows are not getting the same number, focus on the number of stitches across as a priority.
We have a comprehensive list of crochet hat sizes from preemie to large adult sizes.
You can find them here: Crochet Hat Size Charts and Tips